Apizza and Beer Is a Fun Afternoon
Lala's serves up New Haven style pies on the roof deck of Grimm Ale's tasting room
New Haven-style pizza has been all the rage over the last two years and so it was only natural that a few of this “apizza” parlors would end up opening in New York City.
The term “apizza” is a term originating with New Haven’s earliest pizzerias, a dialect holdover from the Italian neighborhood there. The phrase is endemic across suburban Connecticut, particularly in the southern portion of the state along the 95 corridor. All the tiny towns along Route 1 have their own local favorite apizzeria.
Lala’s Brooklyn Apizza opened in the summer of 2023 on the rooftop of Grimm Ales. There’s a small interior dining room, but the main attraction is the large roof area overlooking industrial East Williamsburg. The first summer it was opened, the restaurant was impossible to get a table with hours long waits. It’s kind of amazing to think too given how how the unshaded roof can get.
We’ve been a few times now when its far less hospitable. But it is child friendly, other than the double height staircase. Keep this in mind — its not wheelchair or stroller accessible.
The pizzas are all cooked up on the thin New Haven-style crusts. Its very thin and crunchy, but not quite as cracker-like as Chicago tavern style. I haven’t had many New Haven slices to compare to, but Lala’s seems to do a decent job. New Haven pies are definitely related to, but distinct from, New York style crusts.
The red pie, a basic cheese and tomato sauce affair, was pretty good, but the size is awkward. Its not really enough for two people but more than one person wants. It feels like you’re eating a snack while drinking rather than a meal of pizza.
The pizzas with more toppings — and there is a big rotating seasonal selection and specials — have more of a fulfilling feel. The Puttanesca Pie (not shown), was distinct, recreating the fishy, umami flavors of the sauce. But it was the kind of pie that was best in a large group because one slice, while flavorful, was enough.
The hot pepperoni pie with hot peppers and honey has the same flavor profile of Robert’s Bee Sting, Paulie Gee’s Hellboy, and Rome To Brooklyn’s Hell Riaser — sweet and spicy. The menu is expansive enough to find something unique and different, but it definitely lends itself to groups where people can share different slices.
We didn’t try the claim pie, a take on the traditionally popular New Haven white clam recipe from Frank Pepe. It’s one of those flavor profiles where you have to be into and have enough people around to eat through the pie.
The pizza is cooked well. There is just enough char on the crust to impart flavor, and it holds up long enough to eat. Since this is all connected to Grimm Ale’s tasting room, the bar on the roof serves the breweries full selection of cans and taps, which also helps. The rotating menu keeps the pizza options interesting for repeat trips, too.
We’ve been a few times, in part because at least early in the afternoon its an easy place to have a drink and eat with a child. But its also not the kind of pizza I crave. If I’m looking for a delicious pizza for dinner, I’m much more likely hit up one of the many neighborhood Neapolitan pizza restaurants. But maybe the pizza isn’t important. What Lala’s excels at is delivering a great experience, a beautiful setting, a fresh new flavor combination every time we’re there, and an easy way to commune with friends. The apizza is simply a well put together component of that.